Monday, December 1, 2008

Fri, Nov 28 - Stanford, San Francisco

We had a late, late night last night, and I was already exhausted going in, so today was a bit of a challenge. I got up early to head over to Stanford, my alma mater (well, for Grad School - is there a different word for that?) for a bit of quiet time to reflect on all the craziness that's going on at work, as well as my somewhat distressing health situation.

Stanford is a stunningly beautiful place, and always has a soothing effect on me, especially on holidays when it's empty except for the odd tourist or two. The Memorial Church in particular is a great place to sit and meditate - it's non-denominational, which of course helps. But also, and maybe more meaningfully to me, it was built by Jane Stanford as a memorial to her husband and her young son, and the inside of the church is decorated with large-scale aphorisms about life and how to live it after losing what was most dear to you. I have brought a lot of grief with me to this place over the years, and have always found a measure of comfort and solace in these words, as though they were spoken to me across time by Jane Stanford herself.

This is a woman who buried her only son when he died at 14, and who instead of being paralyzed by grief, decided with her husband that they would found a university in the memory of their son, so that, as they famously said, "the children of California will be our children". Only that a few years later, the husband died, too, and Jane Stanford found herself running the budding West Coast Harvard on her own. So she built the Memorial Church, with a stunning mosaic facade and two imposing towers - which were then destroyed in the huge earthquake that shook Northern California in the early 1900s. All this kind of puts one's own little life in perspective, dunnit, and that woman's spirit gives a lift to my heart when it gets weary, sore or gloomy as it is today.

The Stanfords, on a glum morning next to their mausoleum on campus. The scroll that young Leland holds reads the beginning sentence of the founding document of Stanford University: "Be granted for science and the betterment of humanity..."
Back to more prosaic things, a hot chocolate w/ soy milk, at the Stanford bookstore cafe, on a break from doing shopping for my godchildren.
1pm - an apple in front of Hoover Tower, part of the distressingly conservative, right-wing Hoover Institution. I had been wanting to head over to the Stanford Art Museum, but by this point, exhaustion caught up with me and I had a nap in the car instead. I got about two hours of sleep last night - not good when you're already burnt out and fragile.
But when I finally decided to hit the road and head up to San Francisco, something shifted. The sun came out, my spirits lifted again, and I decided to make a dash towards Greens, on the other side of the city, to see if I could squeeze in before they close at 2.30pm. On the way, I passed by my old gym, two blocks from where I used to live... and check out how the sky cleared up!
2.45pm - And here I am, enjoying a fresh raspberry lemonade at my table at Greens in the Marina! I did call the restaurant (from my iPhone :) for parking directions and to let them know I was coming, and they were kind enough to seat me although it was after their closing time. The day is looking up! You could even see the Golden Gate Bridge in the distance...
Greens is a landmark vegetarian restaurant (says wikipedia, if you don't believe me) founded 30 years ago by the San Francisco Zen Center, where I used to meditate. They use produce grown on the Green Gulch Farm, which is also run by the Zen Center, and the quality is just unbelievable! This is a small starter salad of organic romaine, Treviso radicchio and wild arugula with grilled artichoke, picholine olives, capers and some shaved manchego cheese
and a mezquite grilled brochette with almond cherry quinoa.
ah, San Francisco! This is the view of the Bay from the top of Scott Street, an my way over to the Mission to meet up with Ritesh.
5.16pm - fresh squeezed grapefruit, apple and celery juice w/ mint, at Cafe Gratitude, with Ritesh
5.22pm - Miso soup, shared w/ Ritesh, at Cafe Gratitude
5.22pm - we didn't know it yet, but this was going to be the high point of all desserts, sweets and cake-like things that we were going to enjoy all weekend: the raw, vegan key lime pie, made w/ an avocado key lime mousse, a layer of tofu cream and a crushed walnut-date crust. AMAZING! At Cafe Gratitude, with Ritesh.
outside Cafe Gratitude
We were still hungry, and headed over to Herbivore for a low key dinner. We actually had a reservation for Millenium, a very upscale and supposedly fantastic vegan place that I'd been wanting to try. But the timing just wasn't right. Ho hum. Next time, hopefully.

This starter salad at Herbivore is just a standard lame old salad - light years away from what Greens offers, or what we would have at Bouchon the following day.
Ritesh's very disappointing hot&sour soup, which was so sour we basically couldn't eat it. At Herbivore.
my vegan moussaka - no haute cuisine, but not bad at all. Shared w/ Ritesh.
8.55pm - We knew that Gus Van Sant's MILK was opening tonight and headed over to the Castro an hour before the late show just on the off chance that we might still snatch up a couple of last minute tickets. Seeing MILK in the iconic theater on local hero Harvey Milk's very own home turf seemed like a great idea - and it was! When we got there (and by the grace of God actually found parking around the corner), the line was already stretching all the way down the block, and there was a palpable sense of excitement and emotion in the air. Before long, the line had grown to hundreds of people (the Castro seats 1400). It was an event, and a very special and emotional one at that, and apparently even the TV news had come by earlier to interview those first in line who had been waiting for hours.9.22pm - We were still hungry while waiting in line - half a vegan moussaka really ain't much. We had a solid place in line right outside this Mexican place down the block from the Castro until the theater opened its doors, so we grabbed a bite.. Ritesh's torta (Mexican sandwich) and horchata.
929pm - my spicy shrimp taco
9.53pm - And finally, inside the splendid Castro Theater, sharing some Niederegger Marzipan, w/ Ritesh for dessert. Just for the record, the Castro is a treasure, and my favorite movie theater in the world.
10.07pm - The Castro was built in the 1920s and still has its Wurlitzer organ, that is played live before screenings... and MILK ended up being great, although I dozed off a couple of times. Wonder if Sean Penn will get nominated for an Academy Award? Emile Hirsch would certainly deserve Best Supporting Actor...

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