Monday, March 30, 2009

Assaggi, Notting Hill

The night Ritesh finally arrived from Mumbai, we picked him up from the Heathrow Express at Paddington, and then got whisked away to Notting Hill for some fabulous Italian grub at Assaggi. We were wondering what 'Assaggi' means and decided it must be the name of some pretty village somewhere in Emilia Romagna or something, but I just looked it up and turns out it means 'samples' or 'nibbles'. Just as well... thanks, Delia and Matthias, loved the place, and this was a great dinner!
We started with kirs for the gentlemen, a prosecco for Delia, and a campari soda for yours truly, since somebody ventured the idea that campari, being herb-based, might do wonders for my tummy. It didn't, really, but it was worth a try...

pear salad w/ pomegranate, walnuts and a nice cheese - I forget which kind it was

my gnocchi w/ wild boar ragout
Ritesh's interestingly twirled simple pasta w/ tomato and basil - this wasn't even on the menu, but it was so all he wanted after a fortnight in India that they made it for him
Dessert: semi-freddo of amaretto w/ crushed amarettini in it - fantastic!

In London with Jos

Lunch in the garden w/ fresh pasta and mushroom sauce from Camisa's on Old Compton Street.
Jos loves pasta, and with a lot of parmeggiano!
Feisty little bro Max does, too - without sauce
LOVE this picture of Maxi, if only it was in focus....Jos and older brother Finn climbing trees (and making faces) in the Hampstead HeathFinn taking a breakJos on his walking bike - somebody get this boy some pedals!
Superdad giving a lift to three boys on one buggy, on a stroll to Hampstead Heath...
... and Supermom getting three boys age 4 and under ready for bed at the same time. Hats off to Delia and Matthias!
Yours truly trying to keep up - but not really doing anything useful...

Still in Tunisia...

... Doris and Hector had sand storms to battle. They were about 180 miles south of where Lolo and Jacob were (Zarzis vs. Hammamet), but still on the coast.

Meanwhile, my brother and his girlfriend were in the Dominican Republic and report sand storms from there, too - apparently very untypical for the region and the time of year. So much for the global weather report, and the climate getting crazier...

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Meanwhile in Tunisia...

...Jacob and Lolo had a whole lot of rainy weather...
... while London showed itself in its most glorious and sunny springtime colors

Friday, March 27, 2009

Bye-bye Bombay!

Farewells at the airport... (Ritesh is staying on for another couple of days)
I will miss cutie little Swayam...


... but I'm off to see another cute little guy - my cherubic godson Jos in London, who I haven't seen since his christening a year and a half ago...

Thursday, March 26, 2009

The Inevitable

There are two kinds of food poisoning. There's the kind where you eat something bad, you feel sick, you throw up, and then you feel better pretty much right away and are back on your feet. Then there's the other, more insidious kind that sneaks up on you, accumulating slowly over several days as pretty much everything you consume has a bacterial culture that's different from what you're used to and may even be a little off, but not enough to really make you sick right away. But when the accumulated stuff has nicely settled in your system and reaches a tipping point and finally gets you, it knocks you off your feet. This is the kind I got.

I'll spare you the gory details, but suffice it to say that on top of all the obvious things your body does in its attempts to relieve itself from the offending invaders, mine managed to give out to the extent that I actually fainted. At the Indigo Deli, of all places. Thankfully, I was already in the bathroom by that point, so it wasn't too embarrassing, and thankfully it was a very clean bathroom too. And it was before I actually threw up, so it could have been worse. But really, it was horrible. I barely made it home (thankfully, Ritesh was with me) and spent the entire day in bed, with chills, body aches, a bit of a fever, and that ugly, vicious, persistent nausea. You might say I was asking for it, and you'd be right, what with all the bits of chutney here and fruit juice there - I know, I shouldn't have. I did feel this coming a few days before and took antibiotics and thought I'd nipped it in the bud. Not so.

It took me more than a week to recover. I probably would have gotten better sooner, but this happened on my last day in Bombay, so I had a plane to catch the next day, and then spend a few days in transit in London, which were pretty miserable. After that, being back at work in LA was even worse, what with that awful nausea that hit every time I ate, and the jet lag (that 12h time difference is a killer). Ah, the agony.

But the reason I could make it on that plane from Mumbai to London after spending a day in bed totally incapacitated, was this: a stomach-soothing curd rice, which is rice with fresh, homemade yogurt, salt, mustard seeds, a bit of green chili and coriander, eaten cold:

Ritesh's cousin's family, upon hearing about my sorry state, went through the trouble to make this from scratch and then got on a train all the way from Andheri to deliver it to my hotel room! Can you believe that? And it worked, too! Not only did it taste great, but I could actually keep it down - a little bit at a time. That, in combination with rehydration salts and coconut water (another good source of electrolytes) was the reason I was able to make that flight. Thanks so much, guys - I can't get over just how great you are! In Brazil, people say "he's got a heart the size of Brazil" when someone is that kind, caring and generous - well, you all have a heart the size of India!

The Maximum City

In Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found, Suketu Mehta writes:
There are almost as many people living in the city of Bombay than on the continent of Australia. URBS PRIMA IN INDIS reads the plaque outside the Gateway of India. It is also the Urbs Prima in Mundis, at least in one area, the first test of the vitality of a city: the number of people living in it. With 19 million people, Bombay is the biggest city on the planet of a race of city dwellers. Bombay is the future of urban civilization of the planet. Gold help us.

and

All great cities are schizophrenic, said Victor Hugo. Bombay has multiple-personality disorder.
Which expresses very poignantly the perplexity I experienced during our stay there. How do you even begin to wrap your mind around a city with such shocking disparities, extreme luxury next to abject poverty, penthouses next to open sewers, conspicuous consumption next to utter deprivation? The social and economic injustice is vertiginous and blatant, so much in your face that you'd expect an armed uprising of the underprivileged at any minute. Add to that the maddening crowds in a city 1/3 of the size of London, but with more than twice as many inhabitants, along with the combined onslaught of the heat and the polluted air, and you feel like you're walking around in a pressure cooker. And yet, the mood of the city does not seem to be one of aggression. On the contrary. In contrast to other large cities with similar problems (Rio comes to mind, or Lagos) which exude a palpable sense of violence and hostility, Bombay feels remarkably safe and non-threatening. I can only speak from a very limited, outside perspective, but as a tourist, for one, you can stand on a street corner with an unfolded map and a camera dangling from your wrist, and someone will stop to give you directions. Try that in Rio or Bogota.

conference goers lunching comfortably in the garden of the NCPA
inside the NCPA (National Center for Performing Arts), where the conference took place
Restoration notice on the scaffolding around the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel
Enduring spirit, yes, but dignity?

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Crawford Market

Crawford Market from the outside. And yes, that's Ritesh in the bottom right of the picture.
It was Sunday (we went after brunch at the Taj), and most places were closed. We hadn't thought of that - is Sunday is the Hindu day off, too? Hmm....
nursing kittens
alphonso mangoes by the case! Wish we could take some home for Ritesh's mom...
live turkeys running around free and presumably for sale in the birds section
more birds
another market on the street behind Crawford Market, this one seemingly predominantly Muslim

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Sunday Brunch Buffet at the Taj

Oh my. Where to start? We spent almost three hours at the Taj eating (Taj Tower that is, as the Taj Palace is still closed), so we got to try a lot of stuff. Sadly, though, much of it wasn't that great, so we did not finish everything you see in the pictures. Sometimes a bite was more than enough.

This was my first plate - best things were the mango juice with fresh mint and the biryani with foie gras jus
Ritesh's raita, some dim sum, and fresh watermelon and orange juices
My second plate: best things were the Chinese noodles and veggies in the front, and the fresh grapefruit and coconut salad in the martini glass. The shot glass next to it contains a mozzarella ball w/ tomato, basil and olive oil - neither of which was very good. The dish with handles in the middle contains baba ganoush, not great either. The flappy pink thingie is a pink poppadum made w/ rice flour. Oh, and in the glass is not wine but beet juice.
Ritesh's doughy clafoutis and some banana liqueur
My first dessert plate - very disappointing. It seems like everything was created to look good, not taste good. There's not one thing here that I actually liked.
some fruit salad to clean the palate
some masala chai, and some Bailey's
Some time later, I was ready for round two - could it really be that there was not a single dessert that I liked? Alright, I found one - the egg-shaped passion fruit flavored thingie on the right. But really, considering how expensive this buffet is (2000 Rs, i.e. US$40), and that this is part of the legendary Taj Hotel, you'd think they'd invest in a pastry chef on a par with the other hotels in town...
Alright then. Oysters and a shot of vodka to drown our sorrows over the cake buffet. And I don't even like oysters.
Some peppered salami and bread. Weird way to end a meal, I know. But it was a weird meal to begin with. Oh ye travelers who can afford to stay at the Taj - don't bother. Stay at the Trident instead - the food is miles better.

Streetfood with Pinky

waiting for Pinky and Sanjib at a juice bar in Bandra
street food, yay! these are the fried potato thingies that normally come inside the vada pav
these are different potato fritters (although just as tasty, if not more) - it's hard to tell from the picture, but the ones above are a lot thicker and chunkier and consist of spiced mashed potatoes that are fried in batter, whereas the ones below are just slices of potato fried in batter