Showing posts with label navajo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label navajo. Show all posts

Saturday, January 3, 2009

Mon, Dec 29 - Monument Valley

6.52am - sunrise over Monument Valley, from our hotel room
7.55am - great crunchy French toast (made w/ corn flakes) and fresh fruit, at the hotel restaurant 8.08am - our hotel seen from the Valley, just before starting our tour with a Navajo guide (you have to have a local guide to be allowed off the one dirt road that loops through the Valley)
Ah, so many pictures - here are just a few of my favorite things:
Pre-Columbian petroglyphs
The "Eye of the Sun"
Ritesh's shadow (all that's missing is a colt and a cowboy hat...)
The Totem Pole
A Navajo hogan, which until recently was inhabited by a sprightly centenarian Navajo lady who has lived her entire life in the Valley herding sheep and making rugs. She still makes rugs in here, but has since relocated to a heated little house next door.
After the tour, we drove to Kayenta to get lunch. This is inside the Kayenta supermarket.
Navajo looks like one hard language to learn. In fact, it is so complex that the US used it as code during WWII, and it was never cracked.
Navajo Cakes
This seems to be a wildly popular dessert - in fact, it was the only dessert on offer at the deli counter (where they served Navajo Tacos for lunch): jello w/ some whipped cream, in a variety of flavors (orange, lime, raspberry) - they call it a Parfait Salad. Now I am certainly one to want to try everything, but looking at the ingredient list of one of the to-go packages, I pretty much recoiled in horror. There is not one nutritionally redeeming thing in there. It's just sugar (not even, just five varieties of corn syrup), fake coloring and preservatives. Not even the cream is real. Ahrgh.
1pm - So we ended up at the Subway next door. This is the same turkey sandwich we always get, but we couldn't help but note how sadly understuffed and low on veggies it is. Not so happy about the cheetos and the coke either. Ho hum. 3.47pm - Stunning Ancestral Pueblan ruins at the bottom of the Canyon de Chelly - this is a famous one, shows up on all kinds of paintings, book covers and such. I guess this is why they were called cliff-dwellers... 4.03pm - I had every intention to finish off these remains of Ritesh's Bumble Bar but alas, I dropped it. No worries, I picked it up again and carried it up to the trashcan at the top of the canyon. Although it is so 100% natural it would probably have decomposed quite nicely.
4.25pm - cactus in the snow, on the climb back up from the bottom of the canyon
5.15pm - Found some blue corn and chili crackers we'd brought from home - yay! On the drive back to Monument Valley from Canyon de Chelly
5.25pm - a fuji, leaving the Canyon de Chelly National Park
On the way back, around 7.30pm (yes, this was a long drive) we stopped in Kayenta for dinner at Golden Sands Navajo restaurant.
This is a starter salad from the salad bar: lettuce, shaved carrot, fake bacon bits, croutons and sesame seeds. Other choices included canned pear, canned peach, cottage cheese.
Ritesh's chili, which he recognized as Hormel's, meaning it came straight from a can.
My so-called mountain trout, with a side of (canned) sweet corn plus a baked potato with margarine. I asked the waitress if they had any butter, to which she nodded and said "I'll get you some", quite conspiratorially, if I may add - only to then return with three more little margarine containers!
Meanwhile, every single one of the Italians at the next table ordered the fried liver and seemed to enjoy it. Hmm. I bet there's an Italian guide book out there that recommends this place and tells you to the best dish to get. Which leads me to believe that one should get an Italian guide book whenever traveling, for the food recs alone. Our lame old Lonely Planet USA recommends places like The Blue Coffeepot or the Amigo Cafe, which were not only closed every time we drove by, but also looked somewhat dispiriting. Plus, why would I want to eat Mexican food while in Navajo Nation? I'd much rather stick with the authentic canned food...

Sun, Dec 28 - Hopi Lands to Navajo Nation

10.45am - getting a late start out of Flagstaff - and without breakfast, so someone was getting very grouchy (and it wasn't Ritesh...)11.07am - an apple, heading from the snow into the high desert lands of the Indian Country
this is the same apple a little further down the road...
11.37pm - and this is at the Hopi Trading Post I mentioned (Cameron Trading Post): This one is for Simon, actually: a Native American in a kilt, and high heels. Whaddaya say?
11.42am - local product, at Cameron Trading Post
12.09pm - and yours truly finally got some breakfast at the Trading Post restaurant...
12.12pm - this is the ginormous veggie Navajo Taco (one order, split in two) that we shared. It's Navajo because it is served on a base of fry bread instead of on a taco. Hmm.
12.13pm - a close-up of the fry bread, which I was very excited to try - nice, but a bit on the oily side, if you're wondering...
12.31pm - it didn't taste like it was made out of corn, but I guess it is...
1pm - one of the last sights in Hopi territory
2.16pm - some fresh-brewed Navajo Tea (along with a bundle of the herb that I purchased for later use) at a homey little coffee shop in Kajenta, on Navajo territory. This tea is supposed to be great for sinus infections, and it was - my sinuses had been killing me, what with the cold, the pressure changes due to the altitude and the incredible dryness of the climate, but this tea cleared it up, at least for a while. Should have bought more but mind you, this stuff is expensive.
2.52pm - and here we are - not the best light yet, but this is the first sight of Monument Valley. We have tons more (and better) pictures that I'll link to separately but this was what it looked like when we saw it first. Very moving moment. I grew up watching a lot of Westerns, so this landscape seemed oddly familiar to me - like a piece from my own past. To see it for real in all its splendor and magnitude was just awe-inspiring.
3.52pm - a different part of the Valley, later in the day, taken w/ the iPhone
6.16pm - a French onion soup, at the restaurant of the brand new hotel that just opened in Monument Valley, which is where we're staying. This may not be the Frenchest of onion soups but it was the only soup they had and anyway, who cares. This place is Navajo owned and operated, and it's the only hotel inside the actual Valley Park, so all rooms have an amazing view of the rocks. Can't wait till sunrise tomorrow!
6.27pm - a very good green chile stew, w/ pork and potatoes, which we take it is a local specialty.
6.28pm - and yes, they served fry bread with the stew! Ritesh pointed out that it tastes like an Indian fried bread called bathura, only that bathura is a special occasion thing, not something you'd eat every day - and certainly not twice a day!
6.30pm - my half of Ritesh's salad, not that great. Why do they have to put crappy cheese on everything?
7.21pm - a soy milk mint latte, in our room, planning the next day's adventures...